Ontario Street Briefs

Ontario Street, which makes its home two blocks north of the Grand Red-line el stop, is another road filled with clubs, bars, and restaurants. However, this time, the street caters less to sophistication and more to a tourist taste for novelty.  In addition to the many clubs, Ontario St. has its gems.

I'm going to call the area on the corner of Ontario and Lasalle Street the "tourist triangle." Large neon signs act as beacons of familiarity for families visiting the fright, tumult, and turbulence that is night-time Chicago. The corner plays host to the  Rainforest Cafe, the Hard Rock Cafe, and a retro-style, two story McDonalds. Although they are chain restaurants, the gaud and elaborateness of their decor suggests a higher degree of city poise than their less accommodating counterparts.  After all, when was the last time you saw a limousine parked in front of a McDonalds?  Price Range: $. Large seating areas appropriate for all ages.

The Chicago Chop House, located at 60 W. Ontario, seems out of place, as it is located in a beautiful, vintage brownstone just down the street from the "tourist triangle." Its classy nature, white tablecloths, and excellent service are a welcome change from the rest of the street.  This restaurant, unlike the chain restaurants down the road, is purely Chicago -  They boast that they are "Where the city that works eats." As a steakhouse, the menu is a bevy of rich and robust meats, wines, and desserts.  However, seafood lovers are also in for a treat at the Chicago Chop House.  1400 historical photos tell the story of Chicago and the Chop House as the dream and legacy of founder Henry Norton.  The restaurant has received many rewards, recommendations, and news mention, including that from the Chicago Tribune.  Price Range: $$$.  Reservations suggested.

An experience in itself, Eggsperience brings a hip, affordable 24-hour breakfast enterprise to the center of the clubbing district in the River North neighborhood.  The place is packed from 2-4 a.m.  It's a clean, comfortable, and fun escape from the scary world that Chicago becomes when the nightlife wanes to its end.  The first time I ate here, I felt as though it had saved my life from not only the criminals running the streets, but from the pain caused by my sky-high, club appropriate heels.  The menu consists of old favorites and new twists and contains enough options to satisfy any taste at any time. Urbanspoon is explosive with positive reviews of the joint from people who eat there late at night, in the morning, or even a lazy weekend afternoon.  Eggsperience is located at 35 W. Ontario.  Price Range: $$.

It seems like everyone has heard of the Redhead Piano Bar.  If this bar were a person, he would be the mutual friend of Howl at the Moon and Hub 51.  The bar is suave and sophisticated, but quite masculine, serving scotch, cognac and premium liquor, including tequila, whiskey, and bourbon, as well as cigars.  Located at 16 W. Ontario, the bar is the definition of a hole-in-the-wall.  You'd walk right past it if it were not for the giant, blinking neon sign.  Price Range: $$$.

Hubbard Street Briefs

Hubbard Street, located just north of the Chicago River in the River North neighborhood of Chicago, perpendicular to Rush Street, is the perfect stroll for those seeking sophisticated dining and high-end nightlife.

Shaw's Crab House & Oyster Bar located at 21 E. Hubbard takes fresh seafood to a whole new level.  Its menu caters to a sophisticated palate and includes traditional seafood dishes, as well as new and experimental creations and festive, well-made cocktails.  Even those with a taste for steak will be impressed with Shaw's.  The ambiance and bow-tie clad waiters call visitors back to a different and more romantic era, in which food was a symphony for the mouth and soul, and restaurant service was still a noble profession. Price Range: $$$$. Reservation suggested.

If it weren't for the seemingly wealthy clientele, Howl at the Moon would be considered a dive bar - the most fun, highly energetic, comfortable, riotous dive bar on Earth, save perhaps the original New Orleans location.  The crown jewel of the corporation is the signature dueling pianos show which features expert musicians in an audience-participation-encouraged concert.   So how does it work?  Write your song of choice on a readily available mini-form and place it on the top of the piano - the band will pick it up and play it in order of receipt.  Be ready for a wild night, as many audience members are Landshark enthusiasts who bring the Jimmy Buffett island vibe and abandon to the big city.  Settle in with a drink or grab a bite and become part of the show. Cover Charge: $5-$10.  Price Range: $$.  Look out for weekly deals.  Located at 26 W. Hubbard.

If Hub 51 were a person, he would be tall, dark, and handsome with a spirit of mystery and an affinity for deep conversation.  He would be constantly surrounded by beautiful, enigmatic men and women with deep and overflowing pockets. Hub 51 is comfortable and ambient even after the bar crowd rolls in. The menu is filled with rich, satisfying, yet sophisticated comfort food.  Little golden lightbulbs hang over the tables, which themselves encourage exchange. If you are looking for fun, head over to the fully-stocked bar for drinks or make your way downstairs to the in house club, Sub 51. Price Range: $$$. Reservations available.  Located at 51 W. Hubbard.

Chicago puts its spin on everything. France is no exception.  Paris Club brings a European metropolis to the midwest, and it does it with style.  If Parisian flair is what you're looking for, this is the place for you.  The menu swells with traditional French cuisine spiced up with American panache.  The decor screams city in just the romantic way that a black and white photograph of Cloud Gate does.  Price Range: $$$. Reservations suggested.  Located at 59 W. Hubbard.

Little NOLA

I am an Army brat, sort-of. My dad was in the army for his duration, during which, I was born at Fort Rucker Army Hospital in Fort Rucker, Enterprise, Alabama.  It doesn't get much more southern that that.  My whole family is strung out through the southern United States, from Tennessee to Alabama to Florida to Texas, and sometimes, although I hate to admit it, we live up to the stereotype. My parents and I were the oddballs who decided to move to Colorado. However, we still make time to go back home to visit.  If there's one part of the Southern stereotype that I don't mind, it's the notion that the further south of the dixie-line you go, the better the cooking gets.  Yet, you can't get much further from the South, directionally, culturally and culinarily, than Chicago.  I don't get to visit my relatives as much as I would like.  I miss them, and I miss their cooking.

Imagine my surprise last week when I turned on Food Network to a show featuring the delicacies of southern cuisine here in Chicago's River North neighborhood. Food Network's Heat Seekers with Aaron Sanchez (Pronounced Air-Own for those of us who are hispanic-linguistically challenged) and Roger Mooking showcases the meanest, spiciest foods in the country. On the aptly named episode "Chicago," the two visit three restaurants in the Windy City: Hot Doug's, Bricks Chicago, and my southern blog inspiration, Heaven on Seven.

I first saw this restaurant on a trip to the movie theater a few years ago.  It's located on the upper floor of the Loews Movie Theaters on Ohio and Rush.  It was the mysterious restaurant at the top of the escalator. With a name like Heaven on Seven, I couldn't help but be intrigued. I have not eaten there yet, but Food Network generally doesn't feature places unless they've done something right culinarily.
Boasting "the best Louisiana cookin' outside of New Orleans," Heaven on Seven was founded in 1985 by Jimmy Bannos and his wife. The namesake branches from the restaurant's original location on the seventh floor of the Garland Building. Before Bannos discovered his passion for Cajun and Creole cooking, he and his brother owned a coffee shop as an ode to their grandparent's affinity for restauranteering. Bannos has expanded his restaurant to a chain of three, and still interacts personally with customers as a chef and culinary teacher.
The calendar shows many of the fun upcoming events such as Sunday brunch and live music on weeknights.

Out of Place

Church.

What do you think of when you hear that word?

Two scenarios come to my mind. First, my small hometown. Everyone knows everyone, and God help you if you miss church on Sunday (literally). My church is simple, elegant, and packed full at all of its services. When I sit in those pews, I am trapped inside the fear and passion reminiscent of twelve years in Catholic school. I listen purely because its the only thing I've ever known to do in church, thanks to those frightening ladies in habits (terms of endearment, I assure you).

Since leaving the cocoon of Holy Family Catholic High School, two relevant events have occurred. One - I became less than a proper example of a practicing Catholic. Two - I had the wonderful opportunity to live in Rome.  This is the second scenario that comes to my mind when I hear the word "church." In Rome, there are churches everywhere you look. I believe they may outnumber coffeeshops, and that's saying something considering that we're talking about Italy. Every single one of them is a marvel.

I went to church often in Rome. I admit, shamefully, that my main motivation for sitting through mass was the opportunity to have an hour of uninterrupted time to take in the art. I was that awkward American blonde girl in Italian mass staring at the painted ceilings or wonderfully ornate columns instead of paying attention and following along. As a self-proclaimed student of art history, I couldn't get enough. The art lent itself to the kind of power that the Catholic church prides itself on. It humbled me completely. It made me feel so small, and I was surprisingly okay with it. There is nothing quite like it, or so I thought.

The cornerstone of Holy Name Cathedral

As I am covering the River North neighborhood this week, I thought it would be appropriate to cover a cathedral. After all, the cathedral district is an integral part of the neighborhood as a whole, and it ought not be left out. However, a cathedral in the middle of one of Chicago's wealthiest and most party-driven quarters seems like a contradiction. Even more of a shock came when I walked into Holy Name Cathedral.  The heavy doors swung closed behind me and created a cultural vacuum.  Suddenly, I was somewhere else.  The rush of State Street disappeared into my memory, and the romanesque style nave of the church rose up before me in grandeur.

It took me a moment to adjust. My mind hung somewhere between the fear of my hometown mass and my obsession with cathedral art. Reverence (and twelve years of training) took over and landed me in the back pew of the grand church.  There were several people sitting and kneeling deep in prayer.  Because I am not technically capable or aware of how to turn off the sound on my Nikon, I decided to wait.  Nothing ruins a good prayer like the sound of a shutter closing.

While I waited, my eyes were drawn upward. The wood arch of the nave sat silently, far above me.  Columns held up the side aisles, and chapels to the left and right of the altar disappeared from my view.  However, all of this pales in comparison to the jewel of the cathedral - the stained glass. Panels line the building from front to back, and two rose windows sit poised, reducing the souls of those in prayer to groping, twitching shadows of their beauty. Sometimes awe does not require faith, and even if you aren't Catholic, this cathedral is worth a visit.

The cathedral has a long and twisted history.  Its past is intertwined the the lively, devastating, and turbulent past of Chicago itself. Holy Name Cathedral is currently the seat of the Archdiocese of Chicago, but it hasn't always been that way. The parish was developed first as a chapel at the University of Saint Mary of the Lake. At the time, St. Mary's Cathedral on Madison and Wabash was the official cathedral of Chicago. In 1851, a large cathedral was built and dedicated to the Holy Name just south of the current location.  It functioned as the seat of the diocese until it was destroyed in the Chicago Fire. On November 21, 1875, the cornerstone for the new cathedral was set. Shortly after, the church was once again elevated to the seat of the diocese. Since then, the building has gone through several renovations, expansions, and modernizations to become the Holy Name Cathedral we know today, located on State between Chicago and Superior. The cathedral has become quite important in international eyes with several visits from Popes. The hats of the cardinals of the past hang as a testament above the altar.

The french-gothic style organ inside the cathedral

When you visit the cathedral, you can take a self-guided tour or go to mass. The Web site is a helpful tool for planning marriages, baptisms, or funerals, and contains and link and a wealth of information on the Archdiocese of Chicago.

An Italian Escape

Walking in the Cathedral district of River North is an experience all on its own.  Holy Name Cathedral stands as an anachronism pocketed between modern skyscrapers.  Lush trees and gardens line the road.  The street here is always in the shade, as the buildings are so high.  Yet there is still a glare from the blue plate-glass windows of the towers.  This is where wealth lives, dines, and plays.  You can almost smell the money.  Then, you smell the Italian.

On Huron and Wabash, wedged underneath a high-rise of its own, L'Appetito brings the Italian neighborhood feel to the big city.  I've been going to this deli for two years, and it always has me coming back for more.  Once you've walked through the doors into L'Appetito, you are transported into a different, simpler, and more wonderful world filled with Italian paninis, pizza, pasta, and groceries.  What could be better?  If you ask me, e buonissimo!

The Panini Counter

I lived in Rome, Italy for six months last year.  While I was there, I fell in love with everything about it, especially the food.  I have no Italian blood in me, but if my soul had a nationality, it would be 100% Italian.  Whenever I go to L'Appetito, I feel like I'm not only eating a slice of pizza, but indulging in a slice of the country I miss so much.

L'Appetito has a second location right underneath the Hancock building.  However, this store is often flooded with tourists and loses the appeal of a small Italian home-style deli.  Plus, Jamba Juice is right next door, and nothing kills traditional Italian flavors like overpriced organic smoothies.  Don't get me wrong; I have nothing against Jamba Juice.  I just wouldn't put a Mango-a-go-go smoothie with a slice of L'Appetito pizza.

Handmade Desserts

Anyway, lets get back to River North's little Italian gem.  L'Appetito features imported Italian groceries and coffees.  If it's authentic Italian pasta you're looking for, this is the place to find it.  They also sell gift baskets, packed full of treats.  The friendly young Italian men behind the counter make the best panini in town.  You can customize your own or go with one of the pre-made options from their menu.

The Gelato Counter: Resistance is Futile

The small restaurant has an area where customers can sit and eat their purchases, as well as an outdoor patio, to remind us all that we are still  among glass giants in River North.  However, all of their foods can be packaged to go.  When I leave the store and the city rushes back onto me, it's nice to know that I have a little brown sack of Italy in my hand.

Once you've decided on the savory part of your course (which might just take you all day), you absolutely must try something sweet.  The genius minds behind L'Appetito strategically placed their handmade dessert and gelato counter right by the door.  It's easy to ignore on your way in, but stronger souls than I have tried to overlook it on the way out.  I've never left the deli without a couple of cookies at least. The little handmade confections stare at you from behind their glass case, and the shyer girls behind this counter, by nature, induce you to buy something.  The Italians are masters of pastries, and this is a fine example.

The deli was founded on Columbus Day in 1981 by Anthony Spatara, his wife Christine, and their children Anthony (Jr.), and Licia.  Anthony and Christine were born in Italy and wanted to bring the country's spirit to the midwest's largest city.  The location at 30 E. Huron Street was the first, and was so popular that the family decided to expand to the more touristy North Michigan Avenue.

River North

Here we are again, about to explore a neighborhood we all feel might be above us: River North.
Even the sound of the name seems like it makes our wallets feel lighter.  Only those with more money than they know what to do with and an endless supply of energy make it in this sector of the city.  It's an all night party for the rich and famous.  There's a club on every corner.  Besides the Jewel Osco and the el stop, there is nothing to suggest normality.  It's all extremely lavish and seemingly untouchable.  Even the McDonalds has a luxury feel to it, and the town's wealthy patrons buy their groceries at Whole Foods.
Now, I've lived in Rome and Beijing and consider myself pretty sophisticated and worldly.  Yet, when I take my 5'4", not-quite modelesque self down to River North, I feel like one of my Alabama redneck ancestors.  How do we make this upscale downtown neighborhood our own?  How can we make the exquisite life into every day life?

Map

The true beauty of this neighborhood lies in its nooks and crannies.  It's free to walk through and admire the pretty buildings and prettier people, and when it comes down to buying a meal or having a good time, all you need is a little resourcefulness.  It turns out, the best restaurants and venues are the restaurants and venues that are hidden away.  The niches that don't have a continuous inflow of money have retained their character.  They are little breaths of fresh air in a neighborhood that is so "city" and modern that it begs for an escape.

River North's wealth is a product of its location.  It is bound on the East by Michigan Avenue, on the North by Chicago Avenue, and on the West and South by the Chicago River.  Of course a neighborhood made of money would spring up here.  However, you may not have guessed that it started out as skid row.

Chicago real estate developer Albert Friedman is credited with the transformation of the area.  In 1974, Friedman began buying the land and cultivating it into what it is now.  He found many photographers and artists willing to rent out low cost warehouse space as their galleries.  Over time, the space turned into the River North Gallery District, which boasts the largest concentration of art galleries in the United States, second only to Manhattan.  River North also includes the Clark-Ontario nightlife area, Cathedral district, design district, and Kingsbury Park.

McFadden's

We all have a local haunt - a place we love morning, noon, and night.   Sometimes, there's a restaurant or bar that simply speaks to us - whether it be through the ambience, the staff, the menu, or anything else.  In my case, I love my haunt for all of those reasons. Buried in the heart of the Gold Coast at State and Division, McFadden's Chicago Restaurant and Saloon makes its name.  It's just a block from the Leg Room, Shenanigans, and a local favorite late-night eatery, Five Faces.
During the day, McFadden's Chicago is a quiet, classy, residential bar and restaurant.  Its regulars adore it, as they show by constantly holding a seat.  Business people, girlfriends, and older women on their weekly shopping spree all love this place for its wings, wifi, and simple charm.

At night, especially Wednesdays and weekends, the place transforms.  It turns into a wild and crazy, anything-goes, drinks-flying saloon of sorts.  The well dressed male bartenders are replaced by feisty females, all in black.  The in house d.j.s take turns spinning.  The music is way too loud.  There's a whole new crowd of regulars at this hour.
I could get up in the morning, walk the few blocks down to McFadden's, take my seat, and watch the day go by.  I somehow feel as though i fit in with each distinct group of regulars.
Each member of the staff is also quite unique and each, in their own way is important to me.  Nate is a total sweetheart.  My dad uses the phrase, "they're good peoples," to describe a certain breed of people that, without cause or consequence, are just genuine, real, kind individuals.  Nate is good peoples.  Mike might be the craziest one.  Last time I walked in as Mike was starting his shift, he was tossing cups and napkins at the other bartenders.
Then there's Ted, a friend of mine of three years.  He's a good bartender who splits his time between Hamilton's and McFadden's.  He bartends during the day and joins the party at night.  He's the bartender with the regulars who come in to pour their hearts out.  He knows everything from their jobs to their woes, and exactly what kind of drink they came for.
McFadden's is such a gem because of it's ability to host diverse audiences.  While it does cater to a college crowd with enticing deals ($1 drafts every Wednesday), it also has a more professional side.  The McFadden's Chicago comprehensive Web site makes it easy to organize corporate events, private events, birthday parties, and bachelorette parties.
Surprisingly, McFadden's Chicago is the sixth link in a chain across the United States.  The first McFadden's was opened in 1977 in New York City.  The decor is supposed to represent turn of the century New York City with exquisite woodwork integrated into its mile-long bar.  It's one of the few places in Chicago's Gold Coast that boasts a late-night menu and a 4a.m. liquor license.